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Is this the original hamburger - ?

01.12.2014
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: Is this the original hamburger, David Farley /
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Is this the original hamburger
Is this the original hamburger?
As we strolled through the elegant old streets of Hamburg, with enchanting red-brick warehouses on one side of us and the striking, glass-topped Elbe Philharmonic Hall rising in the distance, native Helmut Moller talked about the citys history. He oozed civic pride and self-confidence particularly when he made his boldest claim of the evening: The hamburger, he said, comes from Hamburg.
It sounded like one of the most well, duh statements Id ever heard. After all, the frankfurter really was born in Frankfurt. But as I was about to learn, the burgers past is a little more well, messy.
Hamburgers may be most associated with the United States, where these days, you can find a version on the menu of almost any upscale restaurant priced at more than $20 and stuffed with foie gras or topped with truffles. But Europe is going through its own burger obsession. A recent Wall Street Journal article revealed that a dedicated hamburger eater can now find a tasty burger in nearly every big European city.

Could this mean the hamburger has finally come full circle that after a grand culinary tour of the New World, this hot sandwich has returned home to Europeans, who are the rightful heirs to the hamburger throne?

I intended to find out to do a little digging and learn once and for all where the hamburger began. What Moller, a friend of a friend, was referring to when he spoke of the burgers origins was the local, centuries-old hot pork sandwich called the rundstück warm which is a low-German translation of round piece warm, referring to the sandwichs round bun-like bread. When Moller first said the words, they seeped from his mouth like goopy melted cheese. In fact, I didnt understand him, and when I asked him to repeat them, he appeared to be losing patience with me. Roondshtook vahrm, he said very slowly, sounding it out. Its the ancestor of the hamburger. Go find it and you can decide.

Hamburg is home to a handful of restaurants that serve this possible proto-burger. Moller scrawled a few names down for me. One is Krameramtstuben, which all the pilsners in the world wont help you pronounce if you dont speak German. The place has been open since 1718, but when I got there I found it was closed for the day.

So I went to the next one on Mollers list: Oberhafen Kantine, seven decades old, set in a leaning house on the port below elevated railroad tracks. I walked in to find a couple of bearded fellows chatting with an inked-up female server over pints of lager. She looked at me expectantly.
Rundstück warm? I said, trying my hardest to twist my tongue in a way that would have pleased Moller.

She nodded and barked something at the chef. A few minutes later, she placed it in front of me: the rundstück warm, which, depending on who you ask, could be the ur-burger, the moderns hamburgers forbearer whose DNA permeates every Big Mac and Whopper the world over. Before I could dig in, owner Sebastian Libbert wandered over. I couldnt help but interrogate him.
The rundstück warm has roots as a snack for dock workers, he said. But really its a leftover, something you eat on Monday as the remains from the usual Sunday pork roast.
The rundstück warm consists of day-old pork topped with either beet root, pickles, tomato slices, or even chives. Its sandwiched between two round buns and doused with pork gravy.
It should normally only have a bottom bun, Libbert said. This is a modernized version.
Just so I could try a variety of types if such diversity existed Id been hoping to find a chef or restaurant in Hamburg that made an elevated version of the rundstück warm, perhaps with pork belly and topped with foie gras between a potato roll or ciabatta bread. My search proved fruitless.
But the question remained: Does the hamburger descend from the rundstück warm?


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